The event set a new attendance record, highlighting the growing appeal of niche fragrance brands – and the continued expansion of the sector. In terms of olfactive trends, however, the landscape has remained relatively consistent over the past two years, with fruity, milky, and vanilla accords continuing to dominate.
Fruity notes remain in the spotlight
Fruity accords continue to feature prominently among the launches showcased at Esxence. Colorful, joyful, and irresistibly appealing, fruit notes resonate with a broad audience, particularly younger consumers such as Gen Z.
Celebrating its 20th anniversary at the show, État Libre d’Orange unveiled Let’s Pretend, a contemporary peach fragrance enriched with floral and woody facets, created by Nizrine Bouzzaoui Grillé (Givaudan). Meanwhile, Alexandre J revisited of its six iconic creations through The Elixir Collector, placing fruity nuances at the forefront. Jeroboam reinterpreted ambroxan with a raspberry twist in Eliksiro, while L’Orchestre Parfum is set to introduce a bubblegum accord in the near future. The trend is also expanding beyond familiar fruits, embracing more unexpected facets — from the banana note featured in Naked Banana by Esse Strikes The Notes to the kiwi accord explored in Aether Aura by Reinvented.
Vanilla continues to captivate
Far from fading, vanilla remains one of the most enduring trends in contemporary perfumery. L’Atelier Parfum explores the versatility of the note through three distinct creations: Vanilla Blush, a radiant, sun-kissed interpretation; Red Hot Vanilla, spicy and opulent; and Triple Black Vanilla, which reveals a darker, balsamic, and liqueur-inspired facet.
Meanwhile, Scent of Africa is introducing Assaye, a woody and spicy vanilla composition created by Julien Rasquinet.
Undoubtedly, vanilla is set to remain firmly in the spotlight, with many more launches expected to celebrate this iconic ingredient in the coming season.
Tonka bean and milky facets reach new heights
Gourmand fragrances continue to thrive, constantly evolving through new textures and interpretations — particularly creamy, smooth, and milky nuances. This renewed interest has propelled tonka bean to the forefront, with CO₂ extraction techniques enhancing its naturally creamy, almond-like character. The ingredient featured prominently among this year’s launches, with standout examples including Jacques Fath’s Le 12 Victor Hugo, where tonka bean wraps lavender in an addictive warmth, and Fragrance Du Bois’s Lucius Maximus, composed by Jordi Fernández, which explores a woodier, sandalwood-infused expression of the note.
Milky facets are also redefining gourmand accords, enhancing everything from coffee, cocoa, and tonka compositions to creations inspired by the world of matcha. Essential Parfums’s Ambre Latte, Bottega Veneta’s Ricordami, and L’Atelier Parfum’s Matcha Crème are all emblematic of this movement. At the same time, brands are pushing gourmand creativity into new territory, as illustrated by Versatile Paris’s Very Bad Rice, a fruity, milky composition with warm rice facets inspired by the Thai dessert mango sticky rice.
At the opposite end of the spectrum: a return to minimalist olfactive territories
While gourmand accords continue to flourish, fresher notes also gaining momentum. "Clean" accords remain highly appealing, as illustrated by Tobba’s Musc Albedo or Scentception’s Clean, which explore sensations of fresh laundry, aldehydes, and white musks.
Meanwhile, an emerging trend centers on herbaceous notes. Lavender stands out as a key ingredient, featured in Jacques Fath’s 12 rue Victor Hugo and Matière Première’s Metal Lavender, with further launches expected to explore this multifaceted note in the coming autumn season. Beyond traditional aromatic profiles, this year’s creations also revealed greener, more Mediterranean-inspired facets, including fenugreek and immortelle, evoking the wild character of the maquis.
A niche fragrance sector reaching new levels of maturity
Overall, the 2026 edition of Esxence confirms — if confirmation were needed — the growing influence and maturity of the niche fragrance sector. The strong presence of major fragrance houses at the event reflects their recognition of the segment’s expanding potential.
Another notable development is the increasing collaboration between independent brands and leading fragrance houses such as Givaudan and IFF, which are now frequently involved in the creation of niche perfumes. This shift, clearly visible in Milan this year, highlights the professionalization of a sector that is increasingly embracing the standards and expertise of selective perfumery.
The next edition of Esxence will take place from February 24 to 27, 2027, once again at the Allianz MiCo Milano Convention Centre.
