The South African brand specializing in microbiome-based skincare has teamed up with Afyren to bring the world’s first bio-based propionic acid to the cosmetics market.
Propionic acid is a naturally occurring short chain fatty acid essential for maintaining a balanced skin microbiome. Emerging research suggests it helps modulate inflammation, support barrier resilience, and maintain microbial balance – key to hydrated, resilient skin.
Until now, propionic acid has only been available at industrial scale from petrochemical sources. Through this partnership, Esse gains access to a COSMOS-certified, bio-based alternative propionic acid made at Afyren’s flagship industrial biorefinery, Afyren Neoxy.
According to Trevor Steyn, the late founder and CEO of Esse Skincare who sadly passed away on November 1st, the collaboration with Afyren enables the brand “to use a natural microbial metabolite in its pure, bio-based form — a first for the skincare industry.”
Thanks to its proprietary circular, low-carbon fermentation process, Afyren is the first biotech company in the world capable of producing a wide portfolio of organic acids at commercial scale.
This new generation of skin care products “shows how biotechnology can unlock new opportunities for both performance and sustainability in cosmetics that bring real benefits to humans and the environment. We look forward to seeing the first products reach consumers,” added Nicolas Sordet, CEO of Afyren.

























