Naturality and sustainability have been rising for many years and have become unavoidable. One of the big technical challenges is the replacement of silicones by more environmentally-friendly products offering the same level of performance. The Emogreen™ line of Seppic has been offering alternatives to light silicones so far and was tested versus various grades traditionally used in hair care, like dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane or phenyl trimethicone. Emogreen™ L15 and Emogreen™ L19 demonstrated significant results and relevance as performant, sustainable and readily biodegradable alternatives. Recently, the Seppic innovation team developed a new emollient, Emogreen™ HP 40 (INCI: C15-19 Alkane - Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene), based on a new innovative and bio-based molecule, hydrogenated polyfarnesene. Highly viscous, just like dimethiconol, it presents very interesting properties to replace dimethiconol-based blends. Combined with bio-based C15-19 alkane to make it easier to manipulate, it creates the ideal sustainable and 100% natural alternative to viscous silicones.

Hair care market

Tested on damaged Caucasian hair, it demonstrated similar covering properties like dimethicone/dimethiconol (DMD). Thermal protective tests, realized on healthy hair tresses with the pure raw material and with a hair serum containing 3% of Emogreen™ HP 40 versus DMD, were realized and a significant gain of protection of the inner structure of the hair keratin was observed of +38% and +22% respectively. The performance between Emogreen™ HP 40 and DMD is comparable.

A triangle test also revealed a comparable sensorial profile. Indeed, the expert panelists were not able to differentiate the tresses treated with Emogreen™ HP 40 or DMD in a rinse-off hair mask on criteria like easy combing, gloss, and gliding. Finally, tested on volume control and curl definition of natural Brazilian hair in a hair serum, Emogreen™ HP 40 demonstrated this time even better results than cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol and placebo.

Volume control & curl definition (A = non treated, B = treated with a...

Volume control & curl definition (A = non treated, B = treated with a placebo hair serum, C = treated with a hair serum incl. 3% Emogreen™ HP 40, D = treated with a hair serum incl. 3% cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol)

Make-up market

Tested at 42.5% in a liquid lipstick versus hydrogenated polyisobutene at same concentration, Emogreen™ HP 40 was rated less sticky in formulation by a panel of 5 esthetician panelists. The color intensity was also assessed on the same formula according to the SCE (Specular Component Excluded) method. Hydrogenated polyisobutene was considered as the reference material. No significant difference was observed, thus highlighting Emogreen™ HP 40 as a relevant sustainable alternative offering color intensity and comfort on lips.

Sun care market

Tested in a SPF 30 sunscreen formulation at 2% versus VP/Eicosene Copolymer, the water resistance was measured in-vitro after 20 and 40 minutes. The formula with Emogreen™ HP 40 provided the same water resistance performance as the one with VP/Eicosene Copolymer.

Emogreen™ HP 40 completes the line of alternatives to silicones that Seppic has been offering so far. It is a versatile texturized ingredient bringing sensoriality and performance thanks to its film forming properties, thus making it of interest for various applications like hair care, make-up, sun care but also skin care. Its inert and non-polar structure makes it very stable and easy to formulate and is compatible with a large variety of oily phases. It is inherently biodegradable and a relevant 100% bio-based alternative to dimethiconol blends offering the same, and in some cases, even better performance. Further investigations will be made to complete its performance profile.