Driven by global demographic dynamics and a young population, dark skins now represent a major growth driver for the cosmetics industry. Brousse explains that in the US, the global black beauty market has risen by 14.2% per year since 2024, according to Custom Market Insight. And this trend is expected to continue at least until 2033.
African-Americans now account for 14.4% of the US population, according to Nielsen IQ, a rise of 32% since 2000, and half of them is less than 30: this connected generation acts as a trend-setter, redefining the codes of beauty.
“In addition, 42% of babies worldwide will be born in Africa by 2050, and India already counts 600 million young people under 25. In France, ethnic statistics are prohibited, but we do know through screening for the sickle cell gene that 40% of babies born in Paris and its region in 2021 have at least one parent of African or Middle Eastern origin. This gives an idea of the changes that will take place in society and of the importance of taking into account the whole population,” says the author of the study.
Despite often having a lower purchasing power, these consumers buy more and spend more on beauty products than the average population.
“Black women use seven times more beauty products for their bodies and hair routines. In the US, ‘black shoppers’ frequently make purchases on Amazon and Walmart, where they find ranges adapted to their needs, and now also on Tik Tok Shop, especially the younger generation,” she adds.
A broad range of characteristics to factor in
To meet these expectations, the product offering should be developed according to specific needs. And yet, the formulas are still far from the scientific reality of coloured tones.
“As part of the study, I interviewed several experts who confirm we still too often start from what we know about white skin types, and it just does not work! To design truly efficient products, we should develop them based on the characteristics of dark skins, and then adapt the formulas to the other phototypes. This situation takes us back to the beginnings of Clean Beauty, about 15 years ago, when brands tried to green up their products simply by substituting an ingredient with another,” she explains.
In France, this challenge is even tougher due to the lack of representative panels. Tests are still mainly performed on white skins, and the panels of women with dark or mixed skin types are considered specific and charged 25% more, which slows the development of adapted products.
“So-called dark skins are no different in that they are just at a higher level on the pigment spectrum,” says Brousse as a reminder. Melanin density has an impact on skin’s reactivity. Inflammation leads to the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots, which is the main cause for consulting a dermatologist in these populations.
Hydration is another key challenge. “Face skin is usually oilier, while body skin is drier,” she continues. “This means formulas should be different: rich in ceramides, but non-comedogenic.”
In makeup and hair care, there are significant differences. Products designed for ‘textured’ hair do not necessarily suit frizzy hair. Complexion makeup should be adapted to the main undertones and use more transparent powders, etc.
All about rethinking standards
The scientific approach has been the same since 1970 and the Fitzpatrick scale, which classifies skins into six phototypes, from the fairest to the darkest. Today, this reference is showing its limitations. Google recently collaborated with Dr Monk, of the Harvard University, to set up a new scale called Monk Skin Tone (MST), which counts 10 skin tones and is meant to better reflect human chromatic diversity.
“These approaches are not perfect yet, and there is no scientific consensus when it comes to skin colour classification. Also, it is important to take into account the dermatology of migration, which studies the effects of climate change on skin. Skins that leave a hot and damp climate often become drier and more reactive. And it changes cosmetics needs,” explains Brousse.
From inclusiveness to scientific reality
Through this study, the author encourages brands to move beyond mere inclusiveness and adopt a better-adapted scientific and marketing approach by developing fundamental research and relying, for example, on yet unexplored pharmacopoeia.
“Ingredients derived from the African pharmacopoeia, including okra, an extraordinary plant already used to moisturise and strengthen hair, or baobab, nigella, and many others, open up new perspectives still hardly explored due to a lack of research and investment. A whole area of local knowledge needs to be promoted,” says Brousse.
If positive initiatives are emerging, the challenge of integrating the reality of black and dark skin into the heart of cosmetic innovation remains.
