Premium Beauty News - What was an association dedicated to cosmetics for black and coloured populations created?
Isabelle Ossey Mananga - Because there is a real need for information in France: information intended for consumers and public authorities as well as professionals operating in the cosmetic sector who are developing an increasing interest in this market segment, that they do not however always understand very well. Label Beauté Noire works with dermatologists black skin specialists, pharmacists and psychologists. We carry out preventive and information actions throughout France. We also conduct actions to raise the public’s awareness on the dangers of some products.
We have also eventually managed to alert public authorities on the need for information campaigns for consumers and for a better control of the market, while for years we were facing a total indifference vis-à-vis these issues.
But information is not our only goal. Our association, founded in 2004, is a consumer association but it also takes an interest in products themselves. We want to raise the awareness of all stakeholders in the sector so that they act more responsibly: manufacturers and distributors alike. This is why we are currently working on a quality label, which will enable our committed manufacturers to have additional benefits in terms of ethics and to enhance their efforts.
Premium Beauty News - What will be the purpose of such a label when all cosmetic products sold in France and Europe are subject to the same regulation which guarantees their safety?
Isabelle Ossey Mananga - All this is true in theory. But what we observe in the field is quite different from this legal fiction. If all products on the French market were really safe, the government would not have felt the need to warn consumers on the risks associated with voluntary skin depigmentation practices. [1]
It must be recalled that for a long time this market segment, considered as a niche, was of no interest for the European cosmetic giants. Products were only available in specific areas such as Barbès or Château d’Eau in Paris. They were often parallel imports of American, or African products, which in some cases were not compliant with EU regulations.
In 2009 and 2010, the French authorities, launched a national campaign to control the market. The tests performed on more than 160 products highlighted a high level of products which were not complying with regulations, with the presence of prohibited substances endangering the health of consumers in about 30% of cases in 2009 and 40% of cases in 2010. The DGCCRF undertook legal proceedings for breaches of the rules on the composition and/or labelling of products and proceeded to the withdrawal of products at the distributors.
Premium Beauty News - The situation has not changed since?
Isabelle Ossey Mananga - This market is rapidly changing with manufacturers showing a growing interest in it. Long considered a niche market, it is now increasingly seen as a growth driver for brands. Today, the product offer is much broader. But parallel circuits have not disappeared, online sales of non-complying products either. Some drugs are still diverted from their original use for cosmetic purposes.
Consumers have trouble making a difference between products. Our work to educate and alert consumers consists in directing them to general and specialized recognized cosmetic ranges and in preventing them from using an inappropriate product, and in diverting them from the use of illegal products containing hydroquinone or steroids. The label will be, from this point of view, a simple and immediately understandable indicator.
The cosmetic market for black and mestizo skins must be deghettoized. Whether it concerns hair care, skincare, or make-up products. By educating consumers, without stigmatizing them and by promoting quality products.
Premium Beauty News - How will this label work?
Isabelle Ossey Mananga - Interested brands will have to adhere to a quality charter imposing commitments in terms of quality and traceability of products and forcing them to accept controls. All product categories will be concerned: skin care, hair care, make-up.
Premium Beauty News - Yet, health issues are not identical for all product categories. Concerns are mostly related to lightening products?
Isabelle Ossey Mananga - Beyond the health aspect there are much more general issues. We can for example question ourselves on the predominating standard of beauty. But all this is changing very quickly. The increasing mixing of races in societies, globalization, the rise in the purchasing power of children and grandchildren of immigrants, are all factors fuelling a fast growing market that brands no longer overlook even if they still find it difficult to meet the specific needs of over-consuming, and demanding customers. Take for example the case of make-up. Studies have shown that there were 12 tons of so called Caucasian skins against 35 of black and mixed skins. This represents a huge issue in terms of product development, particularly in the field of make-up. And few are the brands addressing this need. The more women will easily find a suitable and accessible offer meeting their needs, the less they will be tempted to turn to the parallel market.
| Isabelle Ossey Mananga will speak on the theme of "Challenges quality, safety and ethics on the market of products for dark skins" on June 21 at 11:30 pm as part of the MakeUp in Paris show. She will present the make-up market of black skins, "a very specific know-how but a distribution that is still finding itself" and the activities of the association Label Beauté Noire. |
