Collagen-focused evaluation tools to substantiate anti-aging performance

Eurofins Cosmetics and Personal Care

17 March 2026

Collagen-focused evaluation tools to substantiate anti-aging performance

Collagen is a key determinant of dermal structure, mechanical strength, and overall skin function. Representing 85–90% of dermal fibres, it plays a central role in maintaining firmness and resilience. Aging - whether intrinsic or accelerated by environmental stress - disrupts collagen quantity, quality, and organization, resulting in visible clinical changes. As a result, collagen has become a strategic target for cosmetic and dermatological innovation. At Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care, collagen-focused evaluation tools help investigate these changes and support the substantiation of anti-aging performance claims.

Impact of aging on the dermis

The dermis, representing the structural core of the skin, is especially relevant in the context of aging and collagen research. It is primarily composed of:

Fibroblasts, the resident cells responsible for synthesizing extracellular matrix (ECM) components and fibrous proteins.
Fibrous proteins:
- Collagen, the most abundant (mainly type I and III), providing tensile strength.
- Elastin, enabling stretch and recoil.
- Reticulin (predominantly collagen type III), forming a fine supportive network.
- Extracellular matrix (ECM) molecules, notably hyaluronic acid (HA), essential for hydration, viscoelasticity, and nutrient diffusion.

Intrinsic aging and photoaging both alter ECM composition, fibroblast activity, and tissue architecture, but with distinct patterns. The table below summarizes the main differences.

The human body contains at least 28 types of collagens, each encoded by specific gene families and characterized by a triple-helical structure.

In the skin, several subtypes are particularly relevant:

Type I collagen (≈80–85% of dermal collagen): Provides tensile strength and structural integrity.
Type III collagen (≈10–15%): Associated with tissue elasticity and early wound healing phases.
Type IV collagen: A key component of the basement membrane, ensuring dermo-epidermal adhesion.
Type VII collagen: Forms anchoring fibrils essential for mechanical stability.

Advanced Methods for Collagen Evaluation

A comprehensive understanding of collagen modulation requires complementary ex vivo, in vitro, and in vivo techniques.

Our CRO platform integrates all levels of assessment to guide ingredient development and substantiate clinical claims.

Early-Stage Models and Biomolecular Profiling

3D skin models and human skin explants are frequently used to characterize mode-of-action. Dedicated histological staining (Masson’s trichrome, Sirius red, Picrosirius) enables visualization of dermal thickness, collagen density, fibre morphology, and collagen subtype distribution. These systems provide rapid, mechanism-focused data on how active ingredients modulate dermal remodelling.

MultiOmics approaches (transcriptomics, proteomics) further highlight age-related gene signatures and quantify the molecular pathways influenced by cosmetic compounds—particularly those regulating the ECM, fibroblast function, oxidative stress, and matrix metalloproteinases activity.

In Vivo Biophysical and Optical Techniques

Raman Spectroscopy

Non-invasive Raman spectroscopy directly probes dermal proteins in vivo. Since collagen represents >80% of dermal fibres, its signal dominates the spectrum, making Raman a powerful tool for detecting structural changes to the helical conformation of collagen during aging or after product application.

Imaging Technologies for Real-Time Dermal Assessment

Several advanced imaging tools provide non-invasive access to dermal collagen architecture:

Spectrophotometry (SIAscopy) maps sub-surface collagen distribution.
High-frequency ultrasound (20 MHz) evaluates dermal thickness, echogenicity linked to dermal density, and the subepidermal low echogenic band (SLEB) - a hallmark of photoaging and collagen degradation.

Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT) offers cross-sectional visualization of dermal microstructure.
Line-Field Confocal OCT (LC-OCT) provides near-histological resolution of collagen organization. Fibres density (%) and anisotropy score can be obtained after segmentation with a dedicated software.

Confocal laser scanning microscopy reveals superficial dermal collagen bundles.
Multiphoton tomography (SHG imaging) delivers label-free, high-contrast visualization of collagen fibres, enabling precise quantification of density, orientation, and organization.

Indirect Clinical and Biomechanical Evaluations

Beyond structural assessment, functional methods provide complementary insights:

Biomechanical measurements (suction, torsion, indentation, pressure) capture changes in firmness, stiffness, elasticity, and viscoelastic recovery, all tightly linked to collagen integrity.
Wrinkle analysis, sagging evaluation, and 3D profilometry quantify visible improvements in facial aging, directly relating clinical outcomes to underlying dermal remodelling.
Expert grading and standardized scales reinforce the robustness of clinical interpretation.

Eurofins Cosmetics and Personal Care offer a complete suite of direct and indirect collagen evaluation platforms, spanning mechanistic ex vivo assays to advance in vivo biophysical imaging and clinical performance measurements. This integrated approach enables the development of robust, customized strategies to substantiate collagen-related efficacy claims - ensuring that innovative cosmetic ingredients and formulations are supported by rigorous scientific evidence from mechanism of action to visible clinical outcomes.