“I want to re-enchant perfumery by bringing new stories to life. Whether through new materials or existing ones explored in different ways, what matters is that they have a purpose,” says Stéphane Piquart. For nearly twenty years, the specialist in rare ingredients, who describes himself as a ‘sourcer’, has built his portfolio of olfactory discoveries through travels and encounters around the world. His guiding principle is to create value at every level, whether through the intrinsic qualities of a raw material, the way it is transformed, or the sustainability of the sourcing process.
A demanding approach to sourcing
“Above all, I look for materials with genuine olfactory impact, ingredients that can earn their place in a formula rather than simply serve as a marketing claim. Originality is the other key criterion,” he explains.
Ethical and environmental issues are equally central to his approach. Behave remains committed to the farmers it works with, regardless of the volumes involved, and regularly partners with organizations such as Coeur de Forêt. “These organizations are genuinely active in the field and can ensure that harvesters are fairly paid and that resources are managed sustainably,” he says.
An earth extract to capture the essence of a terroir
In 2023, Behave added an earth extract to its portfolio, a world first. Produced through several successive supercritical CO₂ extraction processes, it is derived from soil collected in Nancy, northeastern France. The innovation reflects Stéphane Piquart’s ambition to capture the olfactory identity of a specific territory. “The soil is a vessel of life, from the emergence of roots to flowering and, ultimately, the falling of leaves,” he explains.
Perfumer Alexandre Helwani incorporated the ingredient into Hold Me Closer, Nishane’s latest launch, enhancing its olfactory impact with synthetic molecules. The extract brings an earthy dimension to the composition, evoking petrichor, the characteristic scent of soil after rain. The concept can be applied to different terroirs to capture their distinctive olfactory signatures. Stéphane Piquart is planning an upcoming trip to northeastern Congo, near Lake Télé, to develop an extract from peat soil.
Following the trail of onycha
Another unusual ingredient in his collection is onycha, a shell operculum used as incense some 3,000 years ago, which he came across while researching ancient perfumery practices.
After several unsuccessful attempts, including treatment with caper vinegar, the sourcer eventually turned to roasting the material before grinding and infusing it. The resulting extract reveals chalky, mineral and salty notes, with a slightly animalic character and saffron-like facets. Its distinctive profile makes it particularly interesting for compositions targeting Middle Eastern markets.
Caper flower expands the natural palette
Stéphane Piquart first encountered caper flowers in the desert of Al-Ula, Saudi Arabia. Intrigued by their beauty, he set out to capture their green, tangy scent, with balsamic nuances reminiscent of labdanum (Cistus ladanifer). His search subsequently led him to caper growers in the Fes region of Morocco, whom he connected with a small company in Casablanca equipped with supercritical CO₂ extraction facilities.
Initial trials conducted in June on fresh flower buds proved inconclusive. Around fifteen further tests were carried out in July using dried buds, with variations in pressure, temperature and extraction time. Five resulting extracts were then presented to perfumers for evaluation and to identify the most promising olfactory profiles. Development is set to continue next year, during the next flowering season, illustrating the time and experimentation required to bring a new natural ingredient to market. Initial production volumes, estimated at around five kilos, are expected to remain limited, with the ingredient initially reserved for a select clientele.
Behave currently works with numerous fragrance houses and brands, including Amouage, Chanel and Parfum d’Empire. In April 2027, Stéphane Piquart will share more than two decades of experience and olfactory discoveries from around the world in 80 odeurs autour du monde (80 Scents Around the World), a book to be published by Nez Éditions.
