From skin to scalp: how bio-succinic acid is reshaping hair care
Clinical tests confirm that Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 reduces lipid synthesis. In acne-prone skin, this correlates with a decrease in sebum production. This effect is linked to the ingredient’s ability to regulate the enzymatic activity of 5-α reductase, thereby downregulating pathways responsible for lipogenesis.
Additionally, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 inhibits the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, supports natural desquamation as shown in ex vivo results, helps eliminate dead skin cells through a gentle peeling effect to prevent pore obstruction, and regulates sebum based on in vivo findings.
Leave-on results & rinse-off results
At 2% in a leave-on formula applied twice daily, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 delivers a significant reduction in sebum levels after 28 days versus salicylic acid. It also reduces imperfections and improves skin appearance (Picture 1).
In rinse-off formats, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 maintains its anti-microbial and sebum-regulating effects. Clinical studies showed significant reductions in imperfections and oiliness (Picture 2). Tested at 2% in a facial cleanser, it improved overall skin condition in only 14 days and is efficient after one single use.
Hair care focus & potential for growth benefits
The hair care market is shifting toward “skinfication”. Consumers expect their hair care products to deliver the efficacy and sensorial experiences they find in skin care.
Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 is an ideal ally for cosmetic brands seeking to meet these expectations, with three main activities supporting hair and scalp health:
First, as a gentle acid, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 enables the removal of dead skin cells from the scalp. Improved scalp corneocyte turnover can indirectly support hair growth by ensuring follicles remain unobstructed and active. Tested on human skin explants, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 does not induce any modification of keratinocyte viability while reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum. This mild exfoliation improves scalp health, reduces follicle blockage, and enhances the absorption of other topical hair growth ingredients.
Secondly, a healthy scalp is essential for hair growth, as microbial imbalance and inflammation can hinder follicle activity and contribute to hair loss. Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 has demonstrated antimicrobial activity, inhibiting the growth of Malassezia sp., the fungus associated with dandruff (Picture 3). By reducing the microbial load and preventing excess bacteria and inflammation, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 helps alleviate dandruff symptoms (clinically proven at 2% - Picture 4) and supports optimal follicle function.
Sebum is a natural oily secretion that protects and moisturizes the scalp and hair. However, excessive sebum on the scalp surface can clog hair follicles, preventing nutrients and oxygen from reaching hair roots, which leads to hair damage and eventual hair loss. Excess sebum also causes oily flakes and skin inflammation, disrupting the skin’s hydrolipid balance. Early symptoms include scalp itchiness and pain, while later symptoms include thinning, weakening, and hair loss. Beauté by Roquette® SA 130, thanks to its effect on the regulation of 5-α reductase enzymatic activity and subsequent downregulation of lipogenesis, is a key player in promoting healthy hair and hair growth.
These antimicrobial and sebum-regulating benefits also address oily scalp conditions, which are often precursors to scalp-related dandruff and associated hair growth impediments.
Finally, it is well established that hair loss, especially androgenetic alopecia, can be associated with the activity of the 5α-reductase (5αR) enzyme [1].
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA), also known as male pattern baldness, is the predominant cause of hair loss among men. It affects over 50% of men by the age of 50 and typically manifests in the temples, vertex, and mid-frontal scalp region. AGA is characterized by a shortened anagen phase, prolonged telogen phase, and miniaturization of hair follicles [2]. A possible approach to enhance hair growth and/or limit hair loss is to prolong the anagen phase using compounds that exert antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity and/or inhibit 5α-reductase, thereby reducing the androgenic effect.
Currently, finasteride is one of the drugs approved by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and EMA (European Medicines Agency) for the treatment of hair loss. However, it can cause several adverse effects, such as local irritation or erythema [3].
Based on these facts, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130, with its ability to promote hair growth and its safety and mildness, should be considered a next-generation active ingredient in hair care for the development of innovative and safe anti-baldness products.
Conclusion
Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 is a forward-thinking active ingredient engineered for brands that demand clinical performance and exceptional skin and scalp compatibility. Aligned with modern consumers’ expectations for efficacy, skin barrier respect, and sustainability, it is especially relevant for next-generation anti-blemish or scalp care formulations. Clinical studies confirm its efficacy in rinse-off products for oily and blemish-prone skin, with a strong emphasis on gentleness, answering the need for evidence-based innovation. As the boundaries between skin care and hair care blur, Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 opens new formulation possibilities for products that promise not just clearer skin, but a healthier scalp, laying the foundation for advanced hair wellness solutions
