In collaboration with the survey platform Potloc, L.E.K. Consulting interviewed over 3,500 consumers in the United States, the United Kingdom, and France. The sample — representative of facial skincare buyers — enabled the identification of eight behavioral profiles, offering valuable insights into consumer expectations in this market.
"Sociodemographic data has the advantage of being easy to share, but it often conceals the wide variability of behaviors within each category," emphasizes Philippe Gorge.
Emotional loyalty versus functional volatility
The study, "Uncovering Growth Opportunities in Skincare Through Behavioral Segmentation," [1] examines buyers’ mindsets, expectations, routines, relationships with influencers and experts, price sensitivity, and ethical values. The research is organized around two key dimensions: the intensity of the quest for expertise, and whether the relationship with the product is primarily functional or emotional.
Furthermore, each of the eight profiles is associated with key economic indicators, including market share, annual spending patterns, number of brands used, and degree of loyalty.
The key takeaway is somewhat counterintuitive: the highest spenders are not always the most attractive over the long term. “It all depends on a brand’s DNA,” explains Philippe Gorge.
The study clearly highlights the significant weight of so-called ‘clinical’ profiles, for whom effectiveness and performance are decisive. Three groups alone represent around 70% of the market: ‘Skincare Hackers’ — young, hyper-connected consumers who constantly test and mix new routines; ‘Effortless Quality Enthusiasts’ — advocates of simplicity and reliability; and ‘Clinical Seekers’ — consumers driven by scientifically proven results.
These profiles, however, display relatively low loyalty, often switching brands as new innovations appear. In contrast, more emotionally driven segments — such as ‘Trusted Touch Ritualists’ or ‘Natural Integrity Seekers’ — spend less but demonstrate far greater brand loyalty.
“The more functional the commitment, the weaker the loyalty; the more emotional the commitment, the stronger the loyalty,” summarizes Philippe Gorge.
Therefore, brands that have successfully forged strong emotional connections with their consumers should focus on nurturing these ties — which drive repeat purchases — rather than investing at all costs in a clinical segment that may sit too far from their core offering.
The distinct role of emotion in France
The study also validates a long-held intuition: French consumers display a deeper emotional bond with facial skincare. Compared to their Anglo-Saxon counterparts, they show a stronger preference for natural products and place greater importance on texture sensoriality and the pleasure of skincare routines.
L.E.K. Consulting attributes this specificity to the strength of French pharmacies, where pharmacists play a key advisory role. This notably curbs the influence of ‘Skincare Hackers’, who rely heavily on social media for guidance. “This doesn’t mean the clinical segment isn’t strong in France — it is,” notes Philippe Gorge. “But it is less dominant than in the United Kingdom or the United States. More broadly, across all three markets studied, we observe a rich diversity of behaviors that can fuel growth.”
Picking the right battles
L.E.K. Consulting sends a clear message to skincare brands: trying to please everyone is a recipe for confusion. “Chasing ‘Clinical Seekers’ at all costs can dilute your value proposition,” warns Philippe Gorge. Instead, brands that focus on aligning their positioning with their core customers’ expectations set themselves up for lasting growth.
‘Clinical Seekers’ may spend big — EUR 350 to EUR 460 (USD 412 to USD 541) a year — but they spread their budget across nearly three brands and rarely stick around. By contrast, ‘Trusted Touch Ritualists’ spend almost half as much (EUR 135 to EUR 170) yet focus on just 1.5 brands and show strong loyalty. That means for brands, this smaller-spending group can deliver almost the same revenue per brand—with far more reliable repeat purchases.
“A sizable segment of the market is focused on effectiveness — and these are big spenders, no question. But there are other consumers, who are drawn to natural products or seek sensorial experiences, pleasure, and luxury. Investing in R&D to boost product performance is always worthwhile, but chasing only clinical profiles can backfire. Trying to tick too many boxes risks diluting your brand’s value proposition,” concludes the L.E.K. Consulting partner.
So, watch out for the “always more” trap! Young, connected consumers will drive growth in the years ahead, pushing brands to be more dynamic on social media, experiment with new formats, and offer multiple experiences. But that doesn’t mean one-size-fits-all works. Stretch your offering too far, and you risk losing the very customers who are most loyal.
