Berkem, which recently announced an Initial Public Offering (IPO) in order to be listed at Euronext Growth in Paris, has just unveiled a new plant active ingredient intended to relieve the skin for the stress and discomfort induced by mask-wearing, also known as “maskne” (or mask-related acne).

Natural and organic soothing active

Dubbed Skin’Calm [1], this active ingredient is extracted from the flower of false acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia). Sourced in France from organically grown plants, Skin’Calm is rich in sugars and polyphenols [2], both of which help fight certain skin disorders by soothing the skin, rebalancing its pH and correcting imperfections.

The soothing properties of the active ingredient were evaluated by an ex-vivo proteomic study (a screening of all skin proteins in order to identify those impacted by the botanical extract), which revealed a 25% decrease in the expression of the S100-A8 protein (compared to usual levels). This protein is known for playing a prominent role in the regulation of inflammatory processes and immune response.

An in-vivo test confirmed the ingredient’s anti-blemish effect, its ability to reduce discomfort sensations and oily skin, and to improve the skin’s texture.

"As a skin care ingredient Skin’Calm was eagerly awaited by professionals in the cosmetics industry, who are keen to offer products adapted to ’maskne’," explains Berkem in a statement.

Current market expectations

Driven by a particular attention to skin health and the overall search for well-being, the dermo-cosmetics market is growing strongly, together with strong expectations regarding the use of natural ingredients. Since the start of 2020, demand has only accelerated, in particular due to the stress generated by the obligation to wear facial covers in link to the health situation. "Maskne" - or the skin irritation linked to mask-wearing - is often cited as a major concern of consumers in post-Covid times globally. A study by market research firm The NPD Group, pointed that sales of face care products claiming anti-acne and anti-blemish benefits grew by 32% between 2019 and 2020.

Skin’Calm is a 3-in-1 ingredient that meets the strong expectations of the cosmetics market. It promotes skin’s balance together with soothing and anti-imperfection benefits,” highlights Charlène Martin, BtoB plant extraction product manager at Berkem.

Berkem’s Skin’Calm complies with China’s cosmetic regulations and can be used as an ingredient for soothing face and body care products, and to reduce face skin blemishes.