Under the July sun, harvesting is in full swing across the plateau. In the fields, each variety of lavender and lavandin reflects decades of selection, advances in agricultural practices, and ongoing olfactory research.
Once harvested and processed, the flowers yield essential oils that SCA3P collects from its members, stores under controlled conditions, and markets to the industry. Accounting for more than a quarter of global lavandin production, the cooperative, based near Apt in the Vaucluse region, in France, has become a major player in the sector. It brings together around 200 producers and some 50 distilleries, including Jérôme Boenle’s, where he processes both his own crops and those of other cooperative members. The supply chain also benefits from the active support of dsm-firmenich, notably through a long-standing partnership dedicated to the cultivation and production of fragrant plants in Provence.
Lavender in all its diversity
An iconic plant of the Provençal landscape, lavender actually encompasses several species, each with distinct cultivation methods and olfactory profiles.
True lavender, or English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), grows naturally on the Plateau d’Albion at altitudes above 800 metres. Reproduced from seed, it develops a distinctive aromatic signature combining camphoraceous facets with subtle mushroom-like nuances. Its low yield – approximately 20kg of essential oil per hectare – makes it the most expensive variety.
Alongside it are the so-called clonal lavenders. Contrary to what the name might suggest, these are not genetically modified plants but varieties selected in the field for their aromatic qualities or resilience, then propagated by cuttings. Maillette, now the market’s most widely cultivated clone, and the more recent Diva Essence are among the best-known examples.
Developed with the support of dsm-firmenich, Diva Essence stands out for its softer, more floral profile, with pronounced linalool notes reminiscent of bergamot. It also doubles the yield of fine lavender, reaching around 40 kg of essential oil per hectare. The variety is the result of years of selective breeding based on plants identified in the field for their outstanding characteristics. Its commercial success has also strengthened demand for the variety. In 2023, dsm-firmenich perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie featured Diva Essence in Burberry Goddess, combining it with three vanilla extracts — infusion, absolute and Firgood® — in a creation that was later awarded by the Fragrance Foundation France.
The Plateau d’Albion has inspired other creations as well. It was in Jérôme Boenle’s fields that Master Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin found the inspiration for Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur (2016), blending two lavender varieties: one prized for its aromatic freshness and clean facets, the other sourced from Seillans.
At lower altitudes, below 800 metres, spike lavender (Lavandula latifolia) develops a much more camphoraceous profile with rosemary-like accents. It also occupies a pivotal place in the history of another cornerstone of Provençal perfumery: lavandin.
Lavandin, the high-yield hybrid
Lavandin is a natural hybrid of true lavender and spike lavender. Sterile by nature, it can only be propagated by cuttings, making human intervention essential to its cultivation. Today, it dominates major production areas, particularly the Plateau de Valensole, where it represents 90% to 95% of cultivated fields.
Its greatest advantage is productivity. While true lavender yields around 20 kg of essential oil per hectare, lavandin can produce between 150 and 200 kg, making it a far more accessible raw material for the fragrance industry.
Several lavandin varieties coexist, each with its own olfactory signature. Grosso, the most widely cultivated, displays a distinctly more camphoraceous character inherited from spike lavender, while Super offers a softer, more floral profile. Harvesting techniques also shape the final scent. So-called “spy” lavandin, harvested with a machine that separates the flower spikes from the stems, produces an essential oil with a more floral character and fewer of the cool, herbaceous facets found in conventionally harvested material.
Pursuing its work on innovative natural ingredients, dsm-firmenich has also developed a Firgood® lavandin extract. With its floral, less camphoraceous profile — evoking freshly picked flowers rubbed between the palms — it has been designed specifically for fine fragrance applications.
It should be noted that the harvesting methods differ significantly between lavender and lavandin. Fine lavender is cut with its stems intact to preserve the desired quality, whereas lavandin is generally chopped in the field to reduce transport volumes and accelerate harvesting. These practices have a direct impact on the olfactory profile of the resulting extracts.
Although both plants are perennial, their longevity remains closely tied to climatic conditions. A field is typically productive for around six years, though some can last considerably longer depending on disease pressure, weather conditions and planting year. Climate change is now reshaping this balance. During the dsm-firmenich visit, harvesting — which traditionally begins in mid-July — was already nearing completion, illustrating how rising temperatures are advancing the season while heat waves continue to put pressure on yields and push producers to adapt their cultivation practices.
