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BCM, a member of Alliance Boots, wants to be one of the key players working behind the scenes in the Beauty sector

Marie-Christine Clerc, BCM

Marie-Christine Clerc, BCM

BCM Cosmétique, which is the BCM factory in France, specialised in the formulation and filling of cosmetic products, continues throughout the years its development and to invest in its factory. With three factories in Europe, employing over 2,000 people, BCM is surely one of the market leaders in the European universe of contract manufacturing, formulating and packing, dedicated to the health and beauty industry. Overview with Marie-Christine Clerc, Sales and Marketing Director of BCM Cosmétique, in France.

Premium Beauty News - In fact, the three plants dedicated to products formulation, which are owned by BCM in Europe, are completed by a fourth one focusing on packaging, isn’t it?

Marie-Christine Clerc - That’s right! There is an additional factory based in Poland, which specialises in secondary packing, toilet bags and gift assembly. This factory is closely linked to our German plant, which is dedicated to the formulation, manufacturing and filling of colour cosmetics and is located near Frankfurt, in Dietzenbach.

Premium Beauty News - So, the three formulation and packaging factories are quite complementary?

Marie-Christine Clerc - They are! The one in Nottingham in England is mainly dedicated to personal care products, ancillaries, suncare products and baby products .The German factory focuses mainly on colour cosmetics and has a great expertise in lipsticks, powders, and coloured emulsions, then the French factory located in Vitré, in Brittany, can actually manufacture skincare products, ancillaries as well, colour cosmetics, sun care and hot filled technology products (foundation, blush, sticks).

Premium Beauty News - This plant in Vitré has undergone and is still undergoing big changes.

Marie-Christine Clerc - As you know, it is not the largest manufacturing unit of the Group, which is our factory in Nottingham, but it is the most diversified. You know, we work backstage and the key to what we do is ensuring we anticipate all new trends and translate these into how we formulate, manufacture and fill. Our factory in Vitré epitomizes it perfectly. Main characteristic: BCM in Vitré delivers 30% of its output to Alliance Boots and 70% to major external customers. Second characteristic, BCM is very flexible: under the same roof, we run small batches of premium brands with sophisticated finishing touches, highly automated filling lines and cutting edge and very efficient equipment. We have set the bar very high at Vitré since at the plant, we are FDA registered manufacturers of OTC products. Our objectives are to be compliant with ISO 22716 and to move towards IFS HPC in tandem with our plant investment over the last two years. We also formulate skin care and colour cosmetics which are Ecocert compliant.

Premium Beauty News - In your presentation of this activity in France, you stress on the concept of flexibility and of anticipation of needs.

Marie-Christine Clerc - That’s right! In the Beauty sector it is vital to feel the “Zeitgeist” and anticipate future trends. We not only offer all our know-how in formulation and packaging but we make a point of innovating in offering our own formulas while staying ahead of trends. Several new BCM formulae were patented over the last two years in colour cosmetics. We imbue ourselves in the spirit and the “DNA “of our customers and position ourselves as a source of inspiration and ideas. Our R&D team works closely with our marketing team and project managers based in our Paris office.

Anticipating is essential for us in BCM Cosmétique. As an example, we started working on the compliance with the 2013 New Cosmetics Regulation at the end of 2010 ! We extended our regulation team to reinforce our service offer in terms of establishment of cosmetics files (products safety, innocuousness, efficiency tests, claims…).

Moreover, it is very important and vital for us to always have some spare production capacity. Hence the plant investments undertaken each year, for example for the new bulk manufacturing vessel for mascara and foundation which was commissioned at the end of 2010 and a new filling line for mascaras which was installed at the end of last year.

Premium Beauty News - Your dual make-up / skincare expertise is a huge asset!

Marie-Christine Clerc - There are obviously important bridges between our different areas of expertise, skincare, make up, hot filled technologies…. This offer which is both diversified and complementary is something our customers really appreciate.

Premium Beauty News - You presented several new collections at the last Beyond Beauty tradeshow in Paris?

Marie-Christine Clerc - Creativity, innovation and experience enable BCM to help brand owners and retailers to develop innovative new products inspired by current and future trends!

For Beyond Beauty Paris 2012, the creative approach of BCM intended to be colourful, light, fanciful with the appropriate dose of rigour specific to formulators! At BCM we take a strategic view of the beauty sector by working behind the scenes months in advance to produce some of the most cutting-edge cosmetic formulations available to the market. Every year we anticipate beauty trends and find new inspiration to enlarge our offer. Innovation is at the core of our approach, through our regular COMIT’INOV meetings. For the Beyond Beauty 2012 event, we have focused on five key themes, each with their own direction and spirit: Re Source, Jungle Mania, Urban Wild, Grand Canyon and Sun Reflex.

For RE SOURCE, it is a need of wellbeing and harmony. The return to a raw natural beauty, which is pure and Japanese-inspired. The “Healthy Nude” is back but updated to give an ultra-sophisticated and refined look. It’s all in the art of creating a flawless and balanced look. The spotlight is on the radiant complexion. The facial features are highlighted by a colour pop of neon coral to awaken the minimalist look. Suitable for everyday, RE SOURCE consists of a range of delicate and sensual products that are “good for the skin” with natural, multi-functional formulas.

For JUNGLE MANIA, it is blending lush verdant hues with classic forties style: the desire to escape to an exotic haven, where there is a profusion of exotic flowers and lush foliage. A return to the 1940s beauty era with a more graphic look including solid colours and clean lines. JUNGLE MANIA incorporates green and neutral tones to create a tropical woody style
reminiscent of the 40s. The focus of this look is the architecture of the face, using bold graphic colours and sweeping lines to accentuate the eyes, lashes and brows.

For URBAN WILD, it is an instinctive and creative palette that echoes the vibe of the city. A range of products inspired by ultra colourful street art and the gritty feel of the urban streets. Vinyl textures and powders with amazing cool effects can be applied as a sweep of solid colour or as a wash of lighter pigment. URBAN WILD is punchy, vibrant and playful with richly coloured pigments.

For GRAND CANYON, it is an infusion of Light: gold highlights accentuate a summer tan and brighten hair from the first rays of the sun, a wash of pink colour accentuated with copper highlights creates a bright healthy glow for all skin tones. The hair is the key focus, adorned with gold leaves, hair jewellery, or a delicate tiara to echo the precious metals in this romantic-rock look.

For SUN REFLEX, as you know, BCM has a rich heritage in sun care (70 years’ experience in the UK). For summer 2013, BCM suggests a complete new range of solar products, the result of an 18 month research project. SUN REFLEX provides a wide range of formulations (creams, lotions and sprays) from focused facial skincare products with high protections SPF50+ to SPF 30 formulations and after-sun products.

Interview by Jean-Yves Bourgeois

© 2012 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
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