The Aqua Natco technology is introduced as a first technique on a market driven by consumer demand for alternative, alcohol-free perfumes of natural origin with a low environmental impact. Expressions Parfumées aimed to meet this demand and their customers’ by developing a new technology adapted to 100% COSMOS compositions.

When you work with perfumes of natural origin and water, you encounter two major issues. The main one is solubility, since a perfume is mainly composed of lipophilic raw materials. The second is solvation [1], to obtain an even, transparent liquid perfume,” explains Jennifer Buzzi, Development & Innovation Director.

Until recently, the charge in water of a perfume composed of materials of natural origin was limited to low doses from 1 to 3%. Now, the Aqua Natco system allows for a high perfume dose of about 10% – a standard concentration in fine perfumery. By solving solubility and solvation issues, Aqua Natco also makes it possible to work with an unlimited olfactory palette and get perfectly transparent aqueous solutions.

A combination of solvents of natural origin yet unexplored

Since perfumery raw materials are not always in the liquid form – they can be powders, resins, or crystals – it is necessary to use solvents to get even, transparent perfumes. In addition, some raw materials of natural origin, in particular citrus essential oils, are hardly compatible with the existing solvents of natural origin. “There are very few solvents in COSMOS-certified perfumery. The most efficient in terms of water solubilization are also the least efficient as regards solvation with these raw materials,” explains the Manager.

The solution developed by Expressions Parfumées consists of a mixture of two solvents, one of which is widely used in cosmetics, but very little in perfumery, together with a new solubilization system. “There is a real synergy between the two solvents which helps solve solvation and solubilization problems. And everything is COSMOS-certified: perfumes, solubilizing agents, preservatives, and solvents,” adds Jennifer Buzzi.

The product derived from this technology is named AquaBoost Natco. It should be diluted at a concentration of 30% in water. In these 30%, there are 10% of extract and 20% of technology. “We are the first to have developed a solution to charge up to 10% of perfume of natural origin in water. It is also a turnkey technology. We sell a perfume ready to be diluted in water. Either the customer buys it to make their own dilution and add the preservative themselves, or we offer to do it all,” adds Jennifer Buzzi.

Performance that competes with alcohol-based perfumes

According to the tests carried out by Expressions Parfumées, the Aqua Natco technology offers equal or even better olfactory results than alcohol-based versions.

We carried out tests on perfumes of different olfactory families and observed very high stability performance. 93% of the intensity was preserved after 4 hours, 85% after 24 hours. In addition, compared to alcohol, the intensity was the same or even better at the application, depending on the perfume references,” says the Director.

As regards turbidity (measurement of cloudiness levels), the Aqua Natco perfumes offer a maximum index of 7 FNUs on a scale from 0 (transparency) to 200 (opacity).

Lastly, according to a life cycle assessment carried out by the Evea agency, which took into account 16 environmental indicators from raw material extraction to end-of-life, the Aqua Natco technology offers a 6% reduced impact, compared to alcohol-based eaux de toilette.