The skin microbiota, this community of microorganisms that covers the human body, have multiple unexplored properties unexplored and a composition - so a genome - unique to each individual . Excessive hygiene or unsuitable care could weaken it. We can "feed" the skin microbiota using probiotics ( "good" live bacteria ) and prebiotics ( food for bacteria).

If cosmetics companies shown interested for this for some time, there are many obstacles to face : as much in terms of wording as marketing. Indeed how to use living organisms in beauty creams, and ensure appropriate use. How to communicate on bacteria when the prevailing discourse pushes hygiene at its worst?

Some brands are tackling the subject head-on

Claire Vero, founder of Aurelia Probiotic Skincare

AObiome has developed a product with living bacteria naturally present in our microbiome but which have disappeared due to an“over-developed” hygiene. AO-mist can be stored for four weeks at room temperature or in refrigerator 1 additional month, and is applied as a last layer onto the skin, after application of the daily beauty routine. Shampoo, body and face cleanser does not contain live bacteria, but are without preservatives to not attack the skin microbiome.

Another solution is to use "de-activated" bacteria. But can we still talk about probiotics (which theoretically are "live" bacteria)? That’s why brands talk about “probiotic tehcnology”.

Aurelia Probiotic Skincare aims to help reduce inflammation to limit skin ageing. Glycoproteins from bifidobacterium, the probiotic used by the brand, helps repair, protect, monitor and support the skin cells by acting on the level of cytokines (inflammatory skin reactions responsible). All other ingredients used by the brand are natural and sourced responsibly and ethically or even organic.

Aurelia Probiotic Skincare has a premium and scientific approach . According to Claire Vero, the founder, "we have tried to educate the world of beauty, starting with journalists, bloggers and consumers. Probiotics are a new approach in cosmetics and we aim to have a clear and didactic approach." And it seems to work since Aurelia Probiotic Skincare keeps being quoted in magazines ( Elle, Vogue , Grazia , Glamour , etc.) or receiving industry awards (35 since launch). "Our brand is made known through the media but also through word -of-mouth because our consumers are very loyal. They have made the switch to our purely natural yet scientific approach and are seeing the results in their skin."

Since launching in 2013, Aurelia Probiotic Skincare became the fastest growing beauty brand at Liberty and already has its own "corner". The brand is present in France at Oh My Cream, and wants to expand in Europe (Italy, Spain and the Netherlands in particular).

Marie Drago, creator of Gallinée

Another brand, Gallinée, will be launched in early March 2016. Its creator, Marie Drago is a pharmacist and wrote his thesis research on the use of probiotics in cosmetics. Gallinée aims at taking care of the microbiome with a triple complex prebiotic, probiotic and lactic acid. Objective: To regain a healthy skin by stimulating its basic functions, reforming the acid mantle of the skin by removing natural irritations and aggressions and stimulating the microbiome. The range La Culture will offer five products (Face Cream, Cleansing Foam, Mask & Scrub, Body Lotion and Hand Cream). The ambition is to come out with a full range including hair products to take care of the entire skin microbiota. "The pH value of the skin is 5.5 on average, the idea is to find that balance with our complex pre-probiotics and lactic acid. The scalp is supposed to be an acid soil, and it is not anymore," says Marie Drago. The brand marketing tone is science-based and natural, and focused on well-being.

Other brands use probiotics and claim it as his clinic with anti-redness range based on "Lactobacillus helveticus".

Probiotics are still a sensitive issue . Brands and retailers are still cautious about it because it is not easy to hold pro-bacteria claims after attacking it for years. Some brands choose to direct their communications toward science, others towards natural. The consumers seek above all the results. On Aurelia Probiotic Skincare web site the most visited page are not "scientific " ones but clients’ testimonies.