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Ingredients & formulation

Perfumes: Symrise innovates with a lily of the valley note from sustainable sources

After six years of development, the Symrise research team has designed Lilybelle, a new molecule with fresh and transparent notes that are very close to the scents of lily of the valley. This new synthetic fragrance is produced through green chemistry from renewable resources and is biodegradable. According to the fragrance maker, the molecule opens new prospects for innovation, especially for male fragrances.

While lily of the valley can be cultivated easily, its delicate flowers offer too low yields and their scents are very difficult to capture efficiently, either through steam distillation or volatile solvent extraction. For fragrance house, the only solution for providing this fresh and delicate scent is to recreate it using synthetic ingredients. Unfortunately, for the lovers of fresh floral fragrances, the existing synthetic molecules - such as Lyral [1] or Lillial [2] - have been dropped out due to public health concerns. In recent years, perfume houses have therefore invested heavily to find alternatives to these substances.

Sustainable sourcing and green chemistry

In such a context, Symrise hits hard with the launch of Lilybelle, a molecule offering fresh, green and wet notes and very close to the scent of the lily of the valley flower. The new molecule also stands out from the mass with its responsible and sustainable sourcing based on the re-use of D-limonene derived from orange peels and other by-products of the fruit juice industry.

In order to produce Lilybelle, Symrise has designed and developed a synthetic process that complies with the twelve principles of green chemistry, including the use of catalysts at each stage of the process, the recovery and recycling of solvents within the manufacturing process, and the restriction of waste production.

Furthermore, states Symrise, environmental decomposition studies have shown that the Lilybelle molecule is biodegradable.

New perspectives

According to David Apel, Senior Perfumer at Symrise, “Lilybelle is a molecule with an extremely fresh, green and wet smell. A touch of aldehydes raises its luxuriant floral touch, thus capturing the sparkling freshness of spring.

In a context marked by the increasing use of floral notes in male fragrances, David Apel considers that Lilybelle opens new opportunities to create innovative male fragrances and is an “incredible source of inspiration”.

Vincent Gallon

Footnotes

[1] Other names: Kovanol, Mugonal, Landolal. INCI Name: hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde

[2] Other names: Lily aldehyde, Lysmeral, 3- (4-tert-Butylphenyl) -2-methylpropanal. INCI name: butylphenyl methylpropional

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