The latest edition of the in-cosmetics show in Hamburg put "green" cosmetic ingredients under the spotlights, including products obtained from environmental-friendly extraction methods, ingredients derived from renewable resources, or obtained from biotech processes providing an alternative to oil-based chemistry. For Greentech, a French supplier of cosmetic actives derived from plants, algae, micro-algae and biotechnologies, the event was an opportunity to showcase its extensive know-how in this field.
New ingredient categories
The company, headquartered close to Clermont-Ferrand, in the centre of France, thus presented two new classes of ingredients obtained by biotechnologies:
– The Ferment’actives developed using a customized and controlled fermentation process to naturally enhance functionality, increase efficacy and develop new activities.
– A new variety of soft butters, the GTB series that have auto-emulsion capacities and higher feel sensory.
The Ferment’Actives are active ingredients stem from an original process in cosmetic area: the fermentation. Actually, Greentech intends to increase developments thanks to the use of biotechnologies. “This process of fermentation increases the concentration of active molecules, maximises the biological activity and/or creates new biological activities,” explains the company.
Greentech already offers three Ferment’Actives:
– Protection Ferment’Active Goji, where polyphenol protective compounds are three times higher than a simple goji extract.
– Brightening Ferment’Active Raspberry, highly concentrated in lactic acid (38 times higher than a simple raspberry extract, according to Greentech) for a "shining " activity on skin and hair.
– Anti-ageing Ferment’Active Pomegranate, wih an antioxidant power boosted by a factor of 1.5.
The GreenSofts represent a second generation of Soft Butters. They are 3-in-1 actives that can be used as: self-emulsifiers, lipidic compounds for oily phase (and can constitute up to 100%) and boosters of biological activity. “They give a soft silky touch and a very nice texture to formulations,” says Greentech.
To date, there are seven GreenSofts offering the biological activities of traditional vegetable oils. However, three of them have been tested on volunteers:
– GreenSoft 336 Camelina, provides a strong improvement in the immediate skin moisturization (62%) and particularly after 8h (+24%),
– GreenSoft 251 Inca Inchi allows a 66% increase in skin flexibility (at a concentration of 5%) and 90% of volunteers felt a repairing effect on the hair after a single use (in a conditioner and a concentration at 2%),
– GreenSoft® 461 Camellia brings strong improvement and maintain in skin moisturization after 24h (+24%).
Greentech adds that new GreenSofts can be created on request.
Fighting body odours
In the range Probiophytes, also obtained by biotechnologies, Greentech has presented Probiophyte Fresh, a new active to counteract body odours (foot, axilla) by inhibiting bacteria that cause odours while preserving commensal bacteria that are necessary for the skin to protect against external attacks.
Babassu and apricot oils
Finally, Greentech has presented new in vivo tests on hair and nails on two of the company’s oils:
– Babassu oil, which has smoothing and styling effects on hair and also provides repairing and smoothing effects on nails.
– Apricot oil, which has coating and protective effects on hair fibber.
Contents: – Trends: Always greener ! – Organic, sustainable or Fair Trade. Which certification best suits cosmetic ingredients? – Interview: Patrice André, ethnobotanist |
