After a decrease by 0.9 % in value in 2012, the French market for beauty products (perfume, skincare, makeup) sold in the so-called selective network - which includes perfumeries and department stores but not pharmacies and supermarkets - recorded another decrease in 2013, with sales dropping by 1.5 % in value. However, according to the French federation of selective perfumery (FFPS), which represents more than 70 % of the sector’s operators and nearly 1,700 sales outlets, including major national retail chains (Sephora, Marionnaud Nocibé ), groups and franchises (Beauty Success), department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Le Bon Marché) and independent perfume retailers, the sector performed rather well, “compared to other sectors related equipment of persons.

Actually, the results are quite contrasted depending on retail and product categories. For instance, chain retailers and department stores recorded a better performance than independent retailers, and makeup and skincare performed better than fragrances.

Independent retailers hardly affected

As far as retail channels are concerned, beauty chains, which represent 76% of the market, ended the year 2013 with flat sales. December sales progressing by +0.5% in value and the opening of 59 new outlets may explain these results.

Department stores, which hold 9 % of the market, posted an increase of 0.5% of their sales, while the number of outlets almost unchanged (+ 4 stores in 2013), and despite bad performances in December (-3.8% in value compared to December 2012).

Eventually, independent retailers had to support the most pronounced effects of the crisis and recorded a decline of 9.8 % of their turnover.

Makeup remains the most resilient category

Regarding the products, makeup is the category recording the best performance in 2013. Its turnover remained almost stable compared to 2012 (-0.7%), thanks to products for the lips and gift sets, which recorded strong growth (+5%).

After an excellent year 2012, skincare products recorded a decline of 1.7% of their turnover in 2013. The year was mainly driven by the strong performance of anti-aging (+3.7%) and moisturizing (+2.8%) products.

Finally, the fragrance market, recorded a decline of 1.7% of its turnover, while rising prices have partially offset a 4.2% drop in sales volumes.

"In a context where consumption declined throughout the year, our market held up rather well. However, we must draw lessons for the future because our products are not first necessities and customers can chose to prioritize other items. We need to improve the customer experience so that it does not give up to please others or to please itself with our products," said William G. Koeberlé, President of the FFPS.