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Ingredients & formulation

2018 in-cosmetics Global show: major trends

After 10 years, in-cosmetics was finally back in Amsterdam. In addition to an exceptionally summery weather, the show gathered an even larger public than it used to. Two new experiences were offered, with an “R&D tour” around a selection of biotechnology and anti-aging players, and a “Boost your test” area in partnership with Skinobs.

Evonik won the Functional Ingredient Gold Award at in-cosmetics Global 2018

Evonik won the Functional Ingredient Gold Award at in-cosmetics Global 2018

With 773 suppliers displaying their latest ingredients, the 2018 edition of the event attracted 9,392 unique visitors, 7% more than last year’s show in London.

The microbiota was far ahead the subjects most discussed by ingredient suppliers, with research for a better-balanced and enriched microbiota as the main theme. Silab took inspiration from the microbiota of flower nectar to help regulate that of aged skins with Ecobiotys. With Fensebiome, Lipotec stimulates the synthesis of good skin nutrients and increases microbial diversity. With Equilibiome, Seppic focused on two particular stem cells to regulate them. Evonik, Greentech, Phenbiox, and Rahn also offer new data on the microbiota, either to enhance the barrier function, regulate the sebum, or act on complexion radiance.

The impact of screens and blue light on the skin is another major concern for cosmetics professionals. Gattefossé specifically characterized screen light, which is mainly composed of three wavelengths (blue, red, green): they developed EnergiNius to fight this additional environmental stress. Solabia, with Blueshield, and Lipotec, with Lumicease, also took interest in the disturbance of opsins triggered by blue light exposure.

Sustainable development is still a priority for cosmetics manufacturers, and the co-valorization of other industries’ by-products inspires new product ranges, as can be seen with Biolie, BioNap, Cosun, and Boréaline. In addition, the development of sustainable sourcing is still one of the main concerns, just like the will to make chemical ingredients more and more biodegradable. Seppic launched Sepilife Nude, a polymer functional ingredient with 45% biodegradability in 28 days – another step toward more environmentally friendly products.

in-cosmetics is also meant to introduce formulation concepts. Gattefossé targets XYZ generations with three different products: an anti-dark spot cream, a night cream, and a cheekbone stick. As for Seppic, they drew inspiration from research on skincare adapted to physical exercise to create a six-product range. IFF Lucas Meyer went to formulation extremes with products with extreme oil, perfume, and alcohol rates.

Naturalps won the Formulation Challenge at in-cosmetics 2018

Naturalps won the Formulation Challenge at in-cosmetics 2018

Next year, the show will be held in Paris on April 2-4, 2019.

Régine Frick

© 2018 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
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