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Environment

Laboratoires Jérodia, riding on the green breaker

The hall dedicated to Nature was one of the busiest this year at the Cosmoprof Bologna show which was held from 18 to 21 March. An opportunity for Premium Beauty News to meet Thierry Logre, CEO of the Jérodia group, one of the market leaders in natural and organic cosmetics.

Nothing seems to stop Thierry Logre! The Laboratoires Jérodia (comprising the brands Phyt’s, Laboratoires Dérmatologiques Gamarde and BioNatural) never stop innovating, to the point that their CEO is almost considered a pioneer and a visionary, a kind of Steve Jobs in natural and organic cosmetics.

Organic make-up

Thierry Logre, Jérodia’s CEO

Thierry Logre, Jérodia’s CEO


When he took over the reins of Jérodia in April 2004, this former manager from the Laboratoires Pierre Fabre intends to pursue but also develop the spirit of a company - founded in 1972 - based on the principles of Biocosmetics, textures and original formulations and 100% Natural. And that strategy paid off since Phyt’s is currently the leading brand in beauty parlours in France and, building on its capabilities in R&D, Jérodia successfully launched in 2009 Phyt’s Organic Make Up, the first bio cosmetic brand certified Cosmébio on all its references.

To date, Phyt’s is still considered a pioneer in the segment of organic make-up, with an almost complete range since only nail polishes are not available. “We just had to overcome a few difficulties with bright reds for the lips”, explains Logre, modestly.

And it was an immediate success, the line being acclaimed for its quality. “More and more professional make-up artists are looking for this type of product.” As a result: this start-up makes-up Marion Cotillard for her role in Les Petits Mouchoirs, Guillaume Canet’s film which was released late 2010.

Zero preservatives

A success which is probably due to a concern for quality and know-how developed for over 37 years.

At Jérodia there is no compromising on principles. The Laboratoires Phyt’s never use any preservatives, not even the ones authorized by Cosmébio. “They never used the exemption authorizing the use of ingredients containing low doses of preservatives”, explains Nathalie Mathan, in charge of the group’s communications. Skincare products from Phyt’s are made from 100% natural ingredients with no synthetic substance.

This originality, which makes of Phyt’s a exception in the world of cosmetics as much as one within Cosmébio is only possible thanks to a remarkable know-how in terms of stability and protection of formulas and the systematic use of packaging featuring a barrier effect.

Of course, environmental requirements extend beyond formulas, to also encompass packaging. Cosmébio specifications prohibits the use of packaging that would not be biodegradable or recyclable. A plastic such as SAN, which widely used in make-up and which is not 100% recyclable is automatically excluded. “It’s almost as complicated to manage as the formula itself”, emphasises Logre.

In-house products

Another characteristic: Phyt’s is a local and independent producer. With 200 employees in France and over 20 million euros in turnover, the group develops in its research centre and formulates in its own laboratories, the entire range of Phyt’s cosmetic products. When Jérodia started in make-up, it installed its own production lines, including the purchase of loose and compact powder blenders. “Everything we sell, is made by us, there is not one single product which doesn’t come from our R&D centre.

It is a way of being sure to stay in line with the quality and environmental specifications of the company. “Our manufacturing process is very stringent. For example, we never use chlorine to wash our machines. We also have a settling and filtration tank, thus we are sure that the water discharged into the environment is clean”.

This production capacity, Thierry Logre, obviously wanted to make it profitable by making it available for the many brands seeking to enter the market of natural and organic cosmetics in both skincare and make-up. Thus the Jérodia group created the Bio lines of Marionnaud and of Biguine, and that of the American brand L’Uvalla and also has clients in South Korea and Japan. Furthermore globalisation is today, the main objective of the group wishing to quickly achieve in Asia the same turnover it does in France.

Vincent Gallon

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