The range of green cosmetic ingredients continues to expand, however adoption issues persist. Organic Monitor finds traceability, supply fluctuations, and price volatility are preventing higher adoption rates.

The next Sustainable Cosmetics Summit will take place in New York City on 14-16th May 2015

According to the market research company, a shift is taking place whereby new green materials are focusing on environmental impacts, as well as consumer impacts. Initially, green ingredients were introduced to replace materials with associated health risks, such as synthetic preservatives, surfactants and emulsifiers. New green materials are addressing environmental issues, and not just consumer concerns about safety.

Regulations are also encouraging companies to use green chemicals. In the US, the New Jersey, Wisconsin and Illinois states are introducing legislation to prohibit the manufacture and sale of personal care products with microplastic exfoliants because of their impact on marine ecosystems. Green alternatives to microbeads are being developed from corn, jojoba, wood cellulose, and natural minerals. However, not all such green ingredients are being accepted by certification agencies because of concerns about GMO contamination. As in the food industry, traceability is becoming important with companies requesting details of agricultural starting material.

There are also now concerns about long-term investment in green ingredients.

Consumer perceptions arguably have the most influence on green formulations. In a 2014 study by Organic Monitor, parabens were cited as the synthetic chemicals most buyers of natural and organic cosmetics look to avoid. However, in a dedicated workshop at the next Sustainable Cosmetics Summit taking place in New York City on 14-16th May 2015, Organic Monitor will show that there is ‘no magic bullet’ to replace parabens in cosmetic formulations.

There are also now concerns about long-term investment in green ingredients. At the manufacturer level, the shift towards green materials was partly driven by high oil prices. The price of petroleum feedstock has dropped significantly in recent months, widening the price differential between synthetic and renewable materials. With green materials also susceptible to supply fluctuations, greater price volatility, as well as traceability issues, adoption rates are expected to remain mixed.