In France, sales of perfumes and cosmetics in perfume shops (chain-stores like Sephora, Marionnaud, Nocibé) and department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps) have returned to growth in 2010. The figures just released by market research firm NPD are confirming the revival of this distribution channel that William Koeberlé, president of the French Federation of selective perfumery (FFPS) announced to Premium Beauty News in a recent interview.

After a stagnating market in 2008 and declining sales (-1%) in 2009, the selective / prestige channel grew by almost 3% in 2010 (+2.6% in value and +1.6 in volume), according to NPD. Finally, French perfume shops would have sold perfume 2.84 billion euros of perfume, skincare and other makeup products.

The good progression of fragrances, + 2% in 2010 compared to 2009, explains much of this renewed activity. Because of its preponderance (65% of sales in the prestige circuit), this category is essential in the outcome of retail sales in France, however this market remains highly seasonal, with Christmas sales having a strong impact and the month of December representing 20% of selective perfume and cosmetic sales in France (28% in the United Kingdom). Unfortunately, "this year, sales of the festive period have been somewhat disappointing," explained the authors of the study.

Makeup products (416 million euros, 15% of the total market), also strongly contributed to drive sales. They were the most dynamic market of the year (+5%). While all segments contribute to the overall growth, the colour categories, such as lipsticks (+8%) and especially nail polishes (+42%) show the strongest progression rates.

Good year too for the skincare market, after several years of bad news. Skincare products eventually returned to growth this year (+2% to 573 million euros), largely driven by the segment of anti-ageing products (+8%). Skincare gift sets also performed well this year (+7%). In contrast, the NPD data confirm the poor performance of body care and solar products (respectively -4% and -3%).

After this return to growth in 2010, selective perfume retailers expect a full recovery in 2011. " Everything suggests that the growth of the year 2011 will be similar, or even faster than 3%. We find no decline in attendance and consumption in our industry, " commented Bernard Tessier, Executive Director of the French Federation of Selective Perfumery.