A closer look at the slowdown in the number of launches reveals some changes in the distribution: men’s fragrances are resisting, as their relative part has grown from 14 % of launches in 2012 to 20 %. Women’s fragrances still represent 53 % of launches on the period studied, and “non-positioned” fragrances derived from confidential perfumery are establishing themselves with 27 % of launches.
Is it over with floral fragrances?
Although trends are now favouring oriental (Aubade) and Chypre fragrances (Si by Giorgio Armani or Acquarosa by Fendi), flowers are still to the fore in the second period of the year: they represent 66 % of floral fragrances out of the 71 women’s fragrances launched (Elle L’Aime by Lolita Lempicka, Modern Muse by Estée Lauder, or Boucheron’s Place Vendôme). Favourites are white flowers such as Neroli, Ylang-Ylang, vanilla and jasmine, which can also be found in soliflores on the niche market.
“The attraction to gourmand fragrances is still quite strong”, explains Isabelle Ferrand. “They remain focused on delicious, sweet, reassuring notes to meet consumers’ demand rather than perfumers’”. These reminiscent scents also explain the recurring presence of fruity notes in numerous compositions, especially pear, which can be recognized in Honey by Marc Jacobs, or Flower In The Air by Kenzo. Blackcurrant is also often used.
Joining the ballet
After the fashion and food industries, perfumery is now plunging into the “Black Swan” ambience of the ballet world. This semester, touches of grace, flexibility and mystery are conveyed by olfactory designs for Repetto, or the new Iris Prima by Penhaligon’s, for which Alberto Morillas sought inspiration from the English National Ballet.
Ambery woody scents for men
The strong trend towards woody scents in men’s fragrances is getting confirmed: out of 27 men’s fragrances listed, 74 % belong to the woody category, compared to only 40 % in the first semester. They share the choice for ambery, woody fragrances (with cashmeran, cedramber, ambroxan, ambrocenide…), associated with strong concepts of success, as can be seen with bay leaves in Paco Rabanne’s Invictus. The growing importance of woody scents mirrors the decline of “Fougère” perfumes – 7 % of current launches, compared to 50 % ten years ago.
Gourmand notes are also infusing intense flavours into men’s variants (1 Million Intense, Mont Blanc Intense…). Claims for strong, vivid scents driven by Eastern markets should be confirmed, in particular with the “fragrance” versions of Terre d’Hermès by Hermès, and Fahrenheit by Dior, soon to be expected.
Iris, leather and faces in confidential perfumery
The powdery softness of iris and the mighty heat of leather are favourite notes in most launches in confidential perfumery. Not that it is still that confidential: with 30 % of launches, niche perfumery is actually visible. Faces are now appearing on marketing campaigns, which are still discreet, but used to focus more on bottle designs.
Re-releases and rebirth
Most fragrances to be launched by the end of the year are “new” (51 %), but leave a large share to variants (19 %), flankers (7 %), limited editions (4 %) and collections (12 %). However, the study mentions a renewal in old recipes. Though there were none in the first quarter of the year, re-releases from long-established perfumeries (Jean Patou relaunched with Joy Forever, Volnay, Oriza Legrand) are making their way back on the market, with a 7 % representation.
