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In vitro method in sun care, a status

Replacing in vivo methods for sunscreen products is urgent but there are several hinders and questions, says Marc Pissavini, prior to the Cosmeticdays, which will be held on the 1st and 2nd December in Marseille, France.

There is no doubt, we have to replace in vivo methods by in vitro methods for sunscreen products. Whether for economic or ethical reasons, thanks to manufacturers, under pressure from the associations, from the European commission, health or security agencies, the consensus is clear, the next developed method must be an in vitro one. By the way, the work began many years ago thanks to Colipa who published the UVA in vitro method in 2006 offering an alternative to the in vivo method (PPD).

But what about today in Europe if an industry wants to develop and sell sunscreen products because Europe has two methods for UVA, one in vivo and one in vitro. Is it possible to replace one method by the other one? The only standardized method for the SPF is in vivo, can we still use an in vitro method for claiming an SPF? Finally what are the other standardized methods and ongoing standardization?

Although some answers seem simple, but conflicting information from the web, several newspapers or magazines can be misleading.

During Cosmeticdays, next December 1st and 2nd in Marseille, we’ll discuss the standardized methods to date as well as those under development, including in vitro SPF and the complexity for future developments. A well-defined status could answer precisely to all open questions about the use of these different methods for determining indices of protection and their future.

Marc Pissavini, Coty Lancaster

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