In the wake of a research that evidenced the role of the protein Serpin b3 as a factor in blocking the skin’s barrier function against external stresses such as dryness and ultraviolet rays, Shiseido has developed an ingredient for inhibiting production of this substance.

The amount of Serpin b3 varies greatly according to each person; its concentration is markedly increased in the epidermis of rough skin and biochemical analysis has shown that increased Serpin b3 significantly disturbs stratum corneum formation. By analyzing the epidermis of approximately 2,000 people all around the world, Shiseido found that there is a strong correlation between the amount of Serpin b3 and the skin’s sensitivity to external stresses.

The Japanese cosmetics giant subsequently evidenced the capacity of 1-piperidine-propionic acid, an alanine derivative, to inhibit the production of Serpin b3.

On human skin, 1-piperidine-propionic acid suppresses the production of Serpin b3 and results in improvement of the barrier function, moisture retention ability and skin texture and smoothness. These results have proven that application of 1-piperidine-propionic acid leads to improve skin quality,” the company explains in a release.

Based on these discoveries, Shiseido believes it would be possible to develop completely new skin care products for “fundamental improvement of skin quality”.