A niche show for niche fragrances

It was a brilliant idea! This is of course what say today organizers of Esxence, which just held its second edition in Milan. For attending exhibitors, there is really no comparison with the dedicated hall at Cosmoprof Bologna, the so called "Masterpieces" section. "We were dealing with real professionals during these four days, and all this at the same time in a very friendly atmosphere much better adapted to our market."

Esxence, March 25-28, 2010, Milan

A market, very difficult to identify. The organizers of Esxence would rather refer to it as an "art perfumery," a concept which combines products quality and originality with a special attention given to distribution. A perfumery of character that contrasts with mass production, deeply impacted by crisis and which professionals attending the event believed is even hit harder by "a real identity crisis."

"Launching a new perfume like you launch a brand of detergent cannot help improve the situation," they explained.

Results at the end of it all

So do niche perfumery brands manage to succeed where others are struggling? "Small successful brand, there are a lot more than you think," says Sylvie Dumontier from Parfums L.T Piver. "To start with ours!". L.T Piver is now worth 7 million euros in turnover, with 40 people, a factory in Chartres, a presence in 150 outlets in Italy, 45 perfume shops in France and 150 beauty parlors. "And we have just started tackling the U.S. market," adds Sylvie Dumontier.

Bashar Nasri, President of France Excellence and owner of the brand Maison Dorin shares the same enthusiasm. An amazing and stunning performance that begins in 1998 with the acquisition of this brand.

"Maison Dorin was born in the latest period of history of the Ancien Régime where art and beauty had all the highest honors", explains Bashar Nasri.

Maison Dorin is one of the oldest heir to the tradition of French perfumery recognized by the choice of the aristocracy. As of 1780, it becomes supplier to the Court. Thereafter, its story is modeled in large part on the international influence of France. The Paris expositions in 1839, 1855, 1867 and 1889 opened the eyes of foreign merchants to French luxury products, and won an unequivocal place among exporters of England, Russia, Spain and the Americas and worldwide.

French Excellency, Italian taste

Because it is also a paradox for this Milanese show entirely dedicated to the art of fragrance and with no counterpart in France, that more than half of all stands were rented by French brands. Nothing surprising considering the French tradition of excellence in that matter. However, these niche brands, or of art perfumery, find it difficult to become popular on the French market!

The first explanation seems to lie in the distribution system. While in France independent perfumeries were massively absorbed by specialized chain stores - such as Sephora, Marionnaud or other Beauty Success - they resisted much better in Italy. And Italy has almost twice as many specialized outlets than France. And in order to not share the same destiny as their transalpine colleagues, Italian independent retailers invested heavily in quality and differentiation. And France still represents 41% of total perfumes and cosmetics imports in Italy.

Esxence, March 25-28, 2010, Milan

Not surprising then, that some of the most successful French companies congregated at a show almost tailor-made for them and their suppliers. Like Marie Huet, a passionate who in March 2007 took in charge the destiny of the Parfums d’Orsay, a very old perfume house to which she decided to restore its former glory. "Le Chevalier d’Orsay, she explains was born in 1801 to a Bonapartist general and a mother Baroness. In 1908, la Compagnie Française des Parfums d’Orsay is created. Over 5 million perfume bottles are sold in 1931".

Like Parfums Nicolaï, whose story is more recent. Patricia de Nicolaï and her husband Jean-Louis Michau launched together in 1989, this perfume brand, by using a simple and strong concept, coming from a long family history: "a perfumer free to decide upon his choices, to create top-notch fragrances, with no marketing constraints".

A dual purpose: Patricia de Nicolai was experienced in working with one of the best creative teams in perfumery, and wanted to continue her work more independently and freely. Jean-Louis Michau, organizational consultant and researcher in economics, also wanted to set a new challenge for himself.
The brand currently has a conditioning workshop located at La Ferté Saint Aubin, near Orleans, in the French Cosmetic Valley. On a covered area of 2.000m2, the production capacity can meet quickly any requests.

Nicolaï has one of the richest collections of all in contemporary perfumery: 12 fragrances for women, 6 men’s fragrances, 5 eaux de cologne, 4 eaux fraîches. from all these creations, a personal style emerges, with a predilection for white flowers and amber notes.

The house has also strongly developed the creation of fragrances, currently declined in candles, sprays, and fragrances for lamps. Since 2006, all fragrance lamps have been grouped under the brand La Maison du Parfumeur.

With four owned-stores in France (the latter being situated in the area of the Palais Royal in Paris) and more than 700 outlets worldwide, the brand now has the necessary basis for considering development on a larger scale, while maintaining high selectivity.