Damien Dufresne

Premium Beauty News - Your participation to the first MakeUp in Paris in June 2010 made of you a precursor. The magnificent pictures of your work are still in everyone’s minds. What will be the highlights of your presence, this year at the Carrousel du Louvre?

Damien Dufresne - I indeed participated to the very first MakeUp in Paris and I am very grateful for the renewed confidence you are placing in me this year. I doubt the images of my "exhibition" are still engraved in everyone’s mind, but in any case they are still in mine.

It was a new experience for me, to make up and then take pictures of my own make-ups.

Premium Beauty News - A 2011 event that will be punctuated by the “Espace Matières”, tell us more about it?

Damien Dufresne - Sandra Maguarian this year, entrusted me with the artistic direction of the "Espace Matières" within MakeUp in Paris.

So I chose the subjects of pictures, the models, the main theme, prior to the shooting.

Unlike last year, I didn’t take the pictures, I decided to only take care of the creation of make-ups and of the art direction of pictures. I asked Alexander Pattein, a young photographer, to join me on this great adventure.

We were also joined by the Imaginers Agency represented by Galaxie Vujanic, Niko Neki and Greg Jouslin to do the scenography of the exhibition. Together we tried to establish the connection between raw materials and images.

I must take this opportunity to thank SGD, Pivaudran and Solev for their help in providing us with the raw materials.

Premium Beauty News - Make-up has become a key strategic element for the development of a beauty brand. Probably more important than some years ago. What were the reasons, do you believe, for this trend to grow?

Damien Dufresne - Because it is difficult to create an identity for skincare lines, while make-up lines allow brands to stand out.
This identity, comprises the choice of textures, of colours, of packaging but also and especially the image conveyed by the media.

To achieve a beauty image is not something obvious, the light must be ideal, the connection with the model "intimate" and the photo "accident" factor is much less obvious than with fashion shoots.

The choice of the model is also very important, her complicity with the photographer, the glances, what the eyes have to say, what they don’t say, what they are hiding.

Emotion, is what makes the difference between two pictures.
Major brands have understood this perfectly, they use images of high profile personalities to challenge the reader. Most of the time they are actresses, because they are the representation of roles they have played.

It bothers me of course, because it’s like moving make-up to the background.

Premium Beauty News - Given your experience in this field, what do you believe was the main progress achieved in formulation and packaging in recent years? And how much still remains to be accomplished?

Damien Dufresne - I have no experience whatsoever in terms of formulation, formulation is the matter of chemists, of laboratories.

But my experience allows me, of course, to distinguish a good texture from a poor texture, but it enables me mostly to know how to combine textures and colours. Because a texture does not allow all colours.

Of course, I regret the lack of collaboration between make-up artists and laboratories. I am convinced that labs as much as brands would benefit from having their range of shades developed by make-up artists.

When visiting trade-shows, I often test samples and notice how much an inappropriate colour can reduce the attractiveness of a texture itself. Make-up artists are not chemists but chemists have never make-up anyone.

As for packaging I’m not an expert either, but I regret of course standardization. Brands do know that packaging is the first asset to help them stand out. And that some customers are just as sensitive to the content as they are to the container.

Without necessarily focusing on packaging as a "luxury item" no to say a "collector’s item", why not try and elaborate better quality refillable packagings, instead of putting on the market quality textures in ordinary packagings?

I believe the success of a brand in the long term, always implies a quality texture, a packaging worthy of the name and most of all a respect of the client. And I am convinced a satisfied customer returns by herself in an outlet and that for that, she doesn’t need to rely on ads.

And long-term is necessarily synonymous with loyalty.